Match of the week

Slow-cooked salmon with a yuzu-flavoured beer

Slow-cooked salmon with a yuzu-flavoured beer

I dithered between two brilliant beer pairings at the British Guild of Beer Writers Beer Meets Food event at the Wild Beer Co, Wapping Wharf last week, both of which involved citrus.

The first was a dish of slow cooked salmon with spiced and pickled cucumber and herb crème fraîche which was served with the Wild Beer Co’s Yokai, a 4.5% beer brewed with yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit), kelp seaweed and Sichuan peppercorns. Beer doesn’t generally exhibit acidity but this was a wonderfully refreshing counterpoint to the richness of the salmon.

The other was even more daring - a lemon tart served with chantilly cream and Sleeping Lemons sour beer which is made with salty preserved lemons. I would never have thought it would have been able to handle the sweetness of the dessert but it just piled lemon flavour on lemon in the most delicious fashion.

The only reason why I went for the salmon pairing as my match of the week is that it’s probably more to most beer drinkers' taste and easier to replicate - although you’d probably have to pick up a can of Yokai for the full effect (The Wild Beer Co sells it on their website for £2.50) Not that that's any hardship ...

You may also like to check out 10 Great Wine Pairings with Salmon

I attended the BGBW lunch as a presenter, talking about how the seasons can affect our choice of beer. (Both these strike me as really summery)

Tarte au citron with Helmut Lang Beerenauslese Chardonnay

Tarte au citron with Helmut Lang Beerenauslese Chardonnay

Citrus flavours are difficult to match with wine, as I’ve mentioned before, but a classic lemon tart with its combination of sharpness and sweetness is particularly tricky. The better a tart is the more it will tend to strip the flavour out of any accompanying wine, so much so that it’s almost worth serving a shop-bought one (of which there are some very good examples) if you have a serious dessert wine to show off.

The other day though, I came across an excellent pairing which was a 2006 Helmut Lang Beerenauslese Chardonnay from Austria which Tanners sells for the very reasonable price of £9.90 a half bottle (a bargain for a sweet wine of this quality).

The reason it worked so well was that it was exceptionally liquorous, coating the palate so that the sharpness of the lemon balanced but didn’t dominate. It would also be a fantastic wine to have in your cellar for Christmas drinking which I suppose we need to start thinking about soon.

Heavens - how fast it comes round!

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